I guess they really like Michael Jackson.
EDIT: Also, it's in English. What's up with that?
What would you tell a student who is unsure about studying abroad?It's kind of a lot of text for the dinky little box I was given. And I really wish I could italicize stuff instead of capitalizing it. And I know it sounds kiiinda cheesy, but... meh, it's all true. And I've said most of it aloud already to another girl who left for a semester in Stirling (also in Scotland) last week.
"The time I spent abroad was the best year of my life. You're going to have more fun than you can even imagine right now, and you're going to meet the coolest people in the process. It's okay if you're nervous. When I first got off the plane in Edinburgh there was a moment of, 'Oh, my god, what am I doing? EVERYONE I've ever known is thousands of miles away!' But I don't have a single regret--I don't even regret the grease fire and landing myself in the hospital, or ending up on the wrong island in Greece and worrying about being solicited for sexual favors in the wee hours of the morning. In the grand scheme of things, it doesn't even matter where you go--you'll never forget your time abroad."
There are always weird things you gotta get used to, living in a foreign country. The language/accents. The food. The weather, the measurements, the attitudes, the public transportation. The layout of cities that are about a thousand years older than your hometown. It's phenomenal, granted, but it's also... sometimes it's exhausting. Mostly it's just tiring, like when you take a puppy outside and they run themselves ragged.
What's weird, though, is lying down in your new bed with it's too-thin mattress and strange duvet at the end of each day and listening to the unfamiliar noises outside your window.
I don't think I will ever, ever miss the sounds that came from the Three Sisters. Just to be clear.
What I did miss, and what I will always miss no matter where I go, are the coyotes in San Diego. When we first moved into this house--I was thirteen or fourteen--I panicked and huddled under the blankets the first night I heard them, convinced there was a pack of screaming women out in the canyon across the street. And then I started wondering if I was going crazy and hearing things, because no one came to their rescue. And since I'd already half-decided I was losing my mind, I wondered if there was some kind of unearthly creature racing through the darkness and eating people.
(Try not to laugh too hard.)
I still imagine a pack of coyotes could give professional mourners a run for their money, but I've come to appreciate the idea that there's some wildlife outside our despicable cookie-cutter neighborhood. There's at least a single pack out there, maybe two packs, and there's got to be enough deer and bunnies running around to keep them alive. I like the idea that there's life out in the canyon, even when the dry brush is almost as tall as I am and twelve inches of rain every year is probably all we're ever going to get (and five of those inches happen all at once, in December).
Usually I'm in bed by the time the coyotes have caught something and start celebrating. Usually it's between midnight and three in the morning. Tonight, though, I came home from a friend's house and parked the car across the street from my parents' house. I gathered up all the nonsense I'd brought out to the car and crossed the street, hoping the front door was unlocked or I'd have to go digging around in my bag for my house keys. (It wasn't, and I did have to.)
In the middle of the street, I stop and lift my head. It's faint, but coyotes sing in the canyon to the south. I stand out there on the blacktop for a while and enjoy the music. Before tonight, I hadn't heard them since leaving for Edinburgh last summer.
After a short while I turn to cross the other half of the street and take a step, then realize I'm hearing coyotes in surround sound. They're singing to the north, too.
There's an odd moment of simmering panic as I picture myself surrounded without having realized it, but both packs (and the northern one didn't sound like more than two or three coyotes) are faint. They're not among the houses.
This would have been a much more interesting post if I'd spotted one or two or been attacked, but unfortunately that's the extent of my story. No sightings, no attacks, nothing interesting--just the first whisper of appreciation for home stemming from something outside the obvious bits. (Family, the weather, my massive pile of books.)
I’ve got some friends who’re trying to get me to go holiday in Vegas this winter, but I’m not buying it. It’s kind of a cruise to get out there, even starting in Santa Barbara instead of San Diego (not that the drive is such a huge deal in itself—it’s a longer trip across the Atlantic, with less to look at, and I’ll always jump at that particular chance) and it’s in the middle of the desert (but the scenery is admittedly pretty satisfying to look at).
My biggest objections, though, are this: (#1) I’ve already been there, and (#2) everything that makes Vegas such a great getaway can be done almost anywhere else. Santa Barbara is for partying. We can catch shows in L.A. or San Diego. UCSB has pools and perfect weather to lounge in. Chumash has gambling.
Now, admittedly, Caesar’s Palace looks pretty cool. Luxor, too. I just returned from north Las Vegas yesterday and wish I’d had a chance to wander around those two resorts a bit just to look at the decorations. Maybe Excalibur, too, though I sort of remember it—my family stayed there for a few days back when I was closer to ten than twenty.
Vegas is an interesting city, though, and sort of reminds me of eastern Europe in a few respects. The parts that everybody sees (downtown Prague, Budapest, and even Athens’ plaka district) are gorgeous and glitzy and enchanting. The rest… not so much.
Vegas was hit very hard by the recession. It’s got the worst housing rates in the entire country—oops, the rental houses that were supposed to pay for university/retirement/whatever are underwater!—and unemployment is high. The population has dropped by more than 35% in the last decade as people scrabble to escape.
All that shows. It’s visible the moment we step off the strip. Neon lights dim, the dust that seemed like such a trifle at the poolside bar suddenly chokes, and everyone around us is sunburned and slouching under the weight of this month’s rent.
Money troubles look the same across the world, I guess.
It's not the greatest picture I took, but one of the only ones of the whole front of the castle. The bridge, I figure, is an added bonus. There are lions standing guard at both ends.
Not as impressive as most would think. Mostly it's just pretty and kind of complicated-looking. The best part, I'd say, is when the groups of confused tourists gather around it at ten or eleven at night waiting for it to ring--it quits ringing at 9PM, and starts back up at 9AM.
Oxford was nice because I didn't really know what I was doing. I just wandered. Turns out there's a castle to tour, complete with with horrific stories from when it was turned into a jail and a tower to climb (the top of which is where the above picture was taken). I went to the biggest bookstore I've ever been in--three stories tall (four for Americans)--and that was just the store where they kept the books. There were completely separate buildings for music, for posters and art, and for--something else. Can't even remember anymore, because the book one was the building I cared most about. I had a wonderful dinner at a nice little restaurant that turned out to be a chain, and I was only there for about thirty hours. (You can do a lot in thirty hours, especially in any English town or small city.)
I was sunning myself in the backyard just now and it occurred to me--hey, it's almost four in the afternoon. That means it's midnight in Edinburgh.
Eight hours is kind of a big time difference. I'm lying in the sun, outside, in the middle of the afternoon whereas if I was in Scotland, I'd probably be thinking about going to bed soon. I certainly wouldn't be wearing a bathing suit.
San Diego really is a world away. Or, I guess at this point, Edinburgh is.
There's not much happening at home. I read Clockwork Angel (all 478 pages) today, and I'm working on getting my hands on American Gods. (Even though I've got a million other books to read.) I unpacked a little more, and tracked down a cell phone/mobile charger that will fit into an American wall socket. Started another book and watched Mr. and Mrs. Smith with the Brother.
Yesterday was more exciting. I went surfing with my dad, then ice skating with a bunch of friends from high school. One of them graduated early and is going to be traveling this winter and upcoming spring. I can't quite express the degree of envy that inspires, so I'm not even going to try.
To avoid boring anyone this summer with tales of how many seconds I managed to catch a wave, I'm going to tell stories--completely out of order--and slooowwly put up pictures of my own travels. Stuff I hadn't yet gotten to before disappearing back into the wilderness.
Not that Stonehenge is really the wilderness. At all. I stayed in the quaint and touristy little town nearest it, Salisbury, for two nights. Showed up at the train station, disembarked, and called the YHA hostel as I started walking toward it to see if I could book a room.
They were full. Cue one of those brow-furrowing, "Hmm" moments where all that's to be done is turn over your current predicament in your mind a bit before you can even start to churn out possible solutions.
Didn't know anyone. Evening. Exhausted. Didn't have anywhere to stay. Shit, I shouldda stayed in Oxford--that was a nice hostel, at least.
In the end, I just started walking into town. Really, there wasn't much else to be done. My plan was to stop at each hotel I saw and ask about prices, but the very first place I passed--a pub--advertised accommodation vacancies. So I went in, more or less ignored the harmless old drunks that wanted to hit on me, and arranged to rent a private room for twenty-five pounds a night. Not a bad deal, considering I'd had to pay eighteen pounds a night in Oxford to share a room with fifteen other people.
I didn't actually make it out to Stonehenge until the next day. I came downstairs and met another American guy about my age from D.C. at breakfast. He was affable and nice, and we hung out pretty much all day.
I'd been told a few times that Stonehenge was kind of disappointing, so I had pretty low expectations. I needn't have bothered--Stonehenge was fantastic. No, you don't get to crawl over the stones and chip off pieces to take home, but I'm one of those people who finds that rather horrifying, anyway.
I want to go back and have a picnic out there one day. You're all welcome to join me. It's going to be wonderful. :)
And yes, that is a lava lamp. And yes, I did win it at Chuck E. Cheese, thankyouverymuch.
(Originally posted on Tumblr on July 4, 2011.)
So the last few weeks, as predicted, were a big fat failure in terms of blogging. But really, they were too awesome to stop what I was doing and sit around on the computer for longer than it took to check my email and make sure there weren't any deadlines I was missing. (Housing for next year: boom. Sorted.)
I'm not in Edinburgh anymore. I flew away on a big fat jet plane yesterday afternoon and forgot that sleeping on said big fat jet plane might help negate the worst of jetlag. At this precise moment in time it's seven AM, Eastern time, and I've been up for almost two hours. Goodness gracious me-oh-my, I'm going to be exhausted by the time the fireworks start tonight.
(And a happy fourth of July to all the rest of the Ahmurica. Hope yours won't be as rainy as the one I'll be having.)
Getting through customs was a nightmare compared to every other trip through customs I've taken in the past year. (Even Heathrow, which you always hear horror stories about.) It's weird being around only one kind of accent. I kept using the wrong words in conversation last night. (My uncle had to ask what a "flat" is--an apartment.) I found the $25 USD my mother handed me last September to be used when I finally left Edinburgh, but I can't find my American sim card. I know it's around somewhere, but I remember putting it somewhere "safe" while I was packing for move-out (you remember, that night I didn't sleep?) and we all know how well that always turns out.
And... that's probably the extent of what you'll be hearing about my return-culture-shock, because to be honest it's completely unsettling and I'm not sure how to put everything into words. I do have internet access, though, and it looks like I'll be having plenty of quiet time to myself in the mornings. So there'll be anecdotes about traveling with Melbourne and her mother through England, wandering through Budapest, getting caught in the rain in Prague, and visiting Skye to see an (ex) flatmate. And I'll be going into NYC tomorrow and the day after, so... yeah. Be mentioning that as well, more'n likely.
It's all going to be all right. I could use some quiet time to myself, probably. And I've got plenty of new books to read. :)Tonight's the last night of my lease. Those of us that're left will be kicked out tomorrow at ten AM, bright and... semi-early. And no, I'm not packed yet. I'm working on it. I tried to take a picture of the bomb site that is my room, but my camera died.
I'm kind of freaking out. Not too much, but I'm hungry and all the food has been binned and I'm tired because it's three in the morning, and it's not really making for the best mental state at the moment.
And even if I was packed at this precise moment in time, I'd still have to vacuum and dust. Gaaahhh.
Kincaid's Court, it's been... interesting. Both disgusting and the best year of my life thus far.
It's raining. But the sky is blue. And there's sunlight glaring like crazy off the wet rooftops.
I just don't even understand Scottish weather. (But it is kind of exciting.)
I had a nice little room in Naxos at this place called Pension Irene. Irene's son met me at the Naxos dock at 11:30 at night when I arrived and offered me a thirty euro room. I snorted, and he offered it for twenty. I told him I'd pay fifteen, and he grumbled but gave in. No hard feelings, either. He was a very nice guy. On my last day there, he let me stay in the room until midnight for five euros.
The shower sucked and sprayed water everywhere, but at least it sprayed warm water. And I had a double bed, a television, a mini-kitchen (with a kettle for tea!), and a balcony. Not bad a'tall.
Looking left out of the balcony...
And looking right. Yes, that is the ocean off in the distance. It was about a ten minute walk away, maybe less.The Turkish castle. Opening times varied and the entrance was difficult to find. (So no, I didn't make it inside.)
Naxos' waterfront. Ariadne's Arch is almost directly behind the camera.
(I still breathe a sigh of relief when I think about how close I cut it. They pulled up the gangplank/walkway/whatever it's called behind me as I boarded.)